Going to leave shortly to get to Island Rock a little after 12. Feeling...
-mentally: on point, positive mindset, thoughts about projects, focus
-physically: a little stiff but my muscles feel solid, nice body tension
-just ate eggs and american cheese, going to have a 2nd cup of coffee before I leave
Goals for the day
-Set 3 minute timer rests inbetween project burns (kept to this very well with some exceptions, but mostly adding time. If you dont hae it yet, sit your ass down)
-3 burns on 3 projects (Didn't need that many burns)
- White v6 (Saving this for next time, did not have it after sending orange and red)
- Orange V7 (!, 2nd burn, went with a different foot beta, that's how strong I felt it on it on the send burn)
- Red V5+ (Woah, super hard and pumpy but its done. I may even learn to love it)
Also sent
-Brown and Yellow V4/V5 (3 burns, wasn't quite "on yet")
-Blue and Green v5 (2 burns, I like this one)
Notes
-On POINT was all that was going through my head. Trying to send hard stuff when not in this state is a waste of resources.
-Timer worked wonders, need to get back into stretching fingers next session
-Pretty packed, no one strong though.
-Felt STRONG and POWERFUL without any carbs in me. (So suck it Gatorade)
Next Session: Monday (2 days of good rest)
-Should get yoga in before then and keep track of muscle tension/soreness
-White v6(This is going to get destroyed, so much easier than Orange)
-Blue/Yellow or the 8, both are quite hard. Haven't really climbed them at all which means it will feel harder than it is, once you learn THE MOVE, it all goes.
Climbing Journal
Friday, November 29, 2013
Wednesday, November 13, 2013
11/13/13 - Send Projects 30%/2 hours
Felt like: 30%
Psyche was: Subpar
Visualization: Didn't exist
Needed to get to the gym sooner and do yoga before hand, body felt stiff. Without a timer I'm climbing with not enough rest. Without music I'm finding it hard to get psyched. Still did work though!
Got to the gym a bit later than I wanted (1:45) and left about 2 hours later.
Sent
-Blue V5 (real solid climb, sending it involved finding a hand hold to bump off of as the third move is a real big move, after getting past that barrier and getting a high foot up it went real easy)
Still need to send
-White V6 (Finally hit that purple right handed, need to brush it all out next time and really go hard on that left foot only move to purple, I think after that its done)
-Teal V5 (the start feels much much easier and I found a real dynamic way to get to the sloper sidepull, its just a big backstep now to that yellow piece, foot up and then a battle through the volume. Finish beta is: right foot on chip to get the orange hold, keep low left side pull on volume, right foot on yellow hold, left foot on the red chip on volume to the finish)
-Orange V6 (damn, still super hard)
-Green and Yellow unrated (probably 5/6) (involves a real big move to a cut, I think it will go with second day hands)
Not the best day for climbing but I'm glad I got in there. Need to get back there tomorrow and systematically send each problem.
Also remember, this wall is your weakest which is why its important to go hard on.
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